What is the difference between a suit on the high street vs what henri x can offer?
Ready-to-wear suits are suits in standard sizes and lengths, made within mega factories using pre-defined patterns which cannot be altered. You are limited to the cloths which are generally of average grade and cut styles available. The construction technique is inferior to tailored options with the use of a process called “fusing” - essentially using glue to bring parts of the garment together. This results in a less robust garment that is not as breathable as other production techniques.
There are also limits to alterations that can be undertaken and “bubbling” can occur after having the garment dry cleaned one too many times. As a result, it is quite rare to find the right ready-to-wear suit that fits perfectly, in the exact colour/material you want. Ready to wear suits can easily be found on the high street or online and are generally cheaper options tailored to a mass market.
A Made to Measure suit is created to fit the specific client. The process begins by visiting one of our style consultants, where you will then choose from a range of fabrics of premium grade, design the style and discuss unique and custom details such as linings/button options etc. After you are content with the styling, our tailor will then take a range of measurements including chest, waist, sleeve length, trouser length and trouser waist etc. The order is then sent over to our team in Europe for production. The team uses modern machinery techniques as well as traditional hand techniques to construct the suit based on your measurements, fabric and styling requirements.
The production technique used here is called half canvassing, which uses natural and breathable materials internally to bring elements of the suit together, predominantly in the chest and lapel area. The result is a suit cut to your personal dimensions with an individual “drape” meaning the suit sits better than a fused ready to wear suit. The suit is also more breathable and robust due to this production technique. This option really brings the suit to life. The cost is understandably more than it would be for a ready to wear fused option, but not a major leap in comparison (on average double) making this a popular choice for the modern gentleman. This option will take approximately 4-6 weeks but can be sooner.
Bespoke involves creating a suit from scratch by hand, using some of the finest grades of fabric available globally, from English and Italian Mills. The process normally begins with an initial discussion with the tailor (in our case our Master Tailor Henri). The tailor then takes a broad range of measurements in comparison to a made to measure option. Normally this is completed with detailed notes about posture and body shape. A set of unique patterns are then drawn by hand and cut using the measurements and notes as a guide.
The chosen fabric is then cut using the patterns, followed by several fittings to bring the elements of the suit together. The production technique used is full canvassing, which uses natural and breathable materials in many areas internal to the suit. This ensures the suit is very robust and supremely draped. The fit continues to improve over time as it hugs your body, similar to a duvet. The suits are generally more pleasant and comfortable to wear due to the breathability of the internal materials and the softness.
A bespoke suit also comes with free alterations for the lifetime of the piece. Due to the complex construction and work involved by hand, this option takes approximately 8-10 weeks to produce and is generally far costlier than our Made to Measure range (Starting £2000). This option is the ultimate classic tailoring of the old, creating you a unique investment piece that can be passed on for generations.
We offer Made to Measure and Bespoke services at Henri X to suit any budget so please ask the question.